We’re generally not big party people. Being a party person typically involves staying awake past 9:30 PM-never my forte. But when the party goes all day and into the night and lasts for a week, even I can manage to participate.

We managed to time our visit to Martinique to coincide with their Tour des Yoles. Total coincidence, but we’ll take it. The Tour des Yoles is a sailboat race that takes place each year. Teams in traditional Martinique fishing boats race around the island in seven stages. Each stage starts from the beach at 10 AM-the boats shove off and race to the next destination. The stages typically last 3-5 hours depending on conditions. The rest of the time is spent, well, partying. This is THE biggest event in Martinique. Thousands and thousands of people show up to cheer on their favorite teams. Many of them are on boats. Mayhem ensues.

First, what is a Yole-the traditional Martinique fishing boat? Well, it’s a narrow-beam, shallow-draft, open boat about 34 feet long. It has a single mast that supports a very large, square sail. There is no rudder. The boat is steered by a long steering oar, which can take 2-3 people to manage in strong winds. It is crewed by 12-16 people. Because it has no keel, it can capsized easily, so most of the crew work to keep the boat balanced by perching on long movable poles extending from the sides of the boat.

This year, there are 16 teams competing and we were fortunate that one of the stages ended and started at Anse d’Arlet, where we were anchored. It’s hard to describe the level of chaos present during and after the race. Hundreds of spectator boat-from small skiffs to large catamarans all congregate around the beach where the race starts. Once the yoles are on their way, the boats basically chase the racing boats along the course, often being only yards away. In addition, the hundreds of powerboats kick up enormous waves that can nearly swamp the open boats. It is CRAZY! Of course, it goes without saying that alcohol consumption goes hand-in-hand with this event, so to safe safe boating practices are not always followed! Best example? Fireworks. ON. A. BOAT. I’m cringing.

It was quite a process of transformation. In the morning, we woke in a calm, peaceful anchorage in company with maybe 30 other boats. In the afternoon, boats began to funnel in. By evening, there were probably 250 boats in the anchorage. Plus jet skis. Plus swimmers. Plus party floats. People were zooming around going from boat to boat visiting different parties. Music was pumping from most of the boats. It was quite a scene. Surprisingly, it quieted fairly early-well before midnight. I guess when one is going to party for a week, pacing oneself is important!

The next morning, we pulled anchor and made our way to the area where the race would start, wanting to witness the race start. It was total mayhem. Hundreds of boats were zooming around in every possible direction. How there were no collisions I do not know. We were on the outskirts of the start area and it was still crazy. We bailed out and just went the other direction.

So, it was quite the experience. We’re glad we got to experience it, but once was enough. We’re moving back to peace and quiet please!