Blog

A week of island-hopping, high-wind anchoring, and warm Fijian hospitality aboard Meraviglia. We are currently in our second week exploring Fiji’s pristine Lau Group, and the trade winds are certainly putting our sailing skills—and anchor gear—to the test! Despite the persistent gusts, our time here has been filled with breathtaking turquoise lagoons, wet passages, and heartwarming encounters on shore.

Part 1: Refuge in the Bay of Islands

We spent the first half of the week nestled in our lovely anchorage inside the Bay of Islands. Working remotely aboard a sailboat comes with its perks, especially when your office window opens to limestone cliffs and crystal-clear waters. During our downtime, we enjoyed a FaceTime catch-up with Nick and Kat, as well as our long-time buddy boat friends Emily and Taras aboard Fortuna, whom we hadn’t seen since they departed Fiji last September for their Indian Ocean crossing.

When we weren’t working, we took the dinghy to circumnavigate the bay, discovering hidden coves, vibrant coral formations, and dramatic rock faces. The shallow sandy spots glowed in shades of bright electric blue, reminiscent of our cruising days in the Bahamas. However, as the week progressed, the anchorage grew increasingly crowded—including the arrival of a massive motor yacht—as everyone sought shelter from incoming strong weekend winds.

Part 2: A Wet Passage to Little Harbour Bay

Knowing Saturday and Sunday held heavy weather, we raised anchor on Friday morning to relocate to Little Harbour Bay before conditions turned “spicy”. Although the interior bay was calm, exiting into the open area outside the bay brought immediate wind and heavy sea spray. Saltwater sloshing over the dodger made visual navigation through the reef systems tricky, relying heavily on satellite overlay imagery alongside marine charts.

After a wet 10-nautical-mile passage under two hours, we navigated the narrow pass into Little Harbour Bay. With no other vessels around, we anchored in the middle of the bay to accommodate a wide swing radius. While the wind continuously howls through the narrow channel behind us, causing us to swing back and forth, the holding is safe and the scenery is magnificent.

Part 3: Sevusevu & Farm Visit in Mavana

Protocol in the Lau Group requires completing a sevusevu ceremony with the local village chief. In this region, visiting the village of Mavana involves reaching the homestead of a local family who presents the kava offer on visitors’ behalf. Reaching their property requires navigating mangrove channels at high tide to avoid getting stuck in knee-deep mud.

We attempted to visit the family on Friday but were greeted only by their dogs and horses, no one was home. On our second attempt on Saturday, we timed the tide perfectly and landed at the farm of Tui and Di. Living with their five sons, Tui and Di maintain a beautiful, self-sustaining homestead complete with livestock, a spring-fed solar water pump that they installed, and lush organic gardens on the hillsides. Tui is also in the process of building a new home and they hope to install a jetty from the shore to the edge of the mangroves to make visiting easier. Tui’s uncle is the Chief of Mavana so they will present our kava to him for us. Before leaving, Di generously harvested a bounty of fresh produce for us:

• Fresh Produce: Garden tomatoes, crisp lettuce, bok choy, and homegrown pumpkin.
• Fruit & Staples: Sweet kumquats and local plantains fresh from the garden.

We got to see their pigs, chickens, and horses. We also learned that their 11-year-old son and his brothers ride horses 30 minutes each way to school every day—a wonderful glimpse into daily life in Vanua Balavu!

Looking Ahead: Setting Sail for Fulaga

We are keeping a close eye on the weather models, hoping for a window by Monday to begin our multi-leg voyage south toward Fulaga. The plan is to sail 60 nautical miles to Lakeba for an overnight stop outside the reef, followed by another 60-mile leg south. El Niño has brought plenty of wind challenges, but we are excited for what lies ahead!

Summary of Anchorage & Log Highlights

Location / Log	Key Features	Cruising Notes
Bay of Islands	Hidden coves, bright shallow lagoons, coral formations	Great shelter in normal conditions; gets busy in heavy wind
Little Harbour Bay	Narrow entrance pass, picturesque rock walls, quiet	High winds funnel through channel; ensure ample swing room
Mavana / Tui & Di’s Farm	High-tide mangrove access, organic produce, solar spring	Visit within 2 hours of high tide; offer kava for chief