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We finally cast off the lines from Vuda Marina! With our shiny new rigging safely installed by Sammy, his incredible team, and a helping hand from Bob, Meraviglia was ready to hit the open water under glorious, bright blue Fijian skies.  

Our mission? Route ourselves around the coast of Viti Levu and position ourselves for a golden weather window to make the journey east toward the legendary Lau Group.  

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🏝️ The Destination: The Remote Lau Group

If you’re unfamiliar with Fiji’s geography, the Lau Group is an eastern chain of about 60 islands and islets scattered across 114,000 square kilometers of the South Pacific. Roughly half are completely uninhabited coral atolls and volcanic outcrops with zero tourist facilities, no visitors, and pristine reefs that have never seen a commercial dive.  

Getting there is notoriously tough—the prevailing trade winds blow hard from east to west, so reaching them requires waiting for a rare weather window where you aren’t just brutally bashing into wind and swell.  

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🌅 Tavua Bay & The Elusive Green Flash

Our first morning underway was pure bliss: flat seas, warm sunshine, and gentle breezes. By early afternoon, however, the wind shifted right into our teeth—making for a classic nautical “bash”.  

We pushed through and tucked into Tavua Bay by late afternoon. To our delight, we had the quiet, calm anchorage entirely to ourselves. As the anchor dug in, our reward arrived right on cue: a stunning Fijian sunset complete with a genuine green flash as the sun dipped beneath the horizon!  

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🦇 Missing Reef Markers & Dusk Flying Foxes

Cruising the northern coast of Viti Levu demands laser-sharp attention. The charts list plenty of navigation markers around the coral reefs, but out on the water, many of those markers are simply missing! High sun and good daylight driving are non-negotiable.  

We motor-sailed over to Nananu-I-Cake, dropping hook near the breathtaking Dolphin Island—a private luxury retreat. While the wind blew hard enough to lock us down for four full days, we couldn’t have picked a better front-row seat to paradise:  

• The Dusk Bat Parade: Every evening at twilight, dozens of massive fruit bats (flying foxes) poured out over the water, swooping gracefully right above our boat to roost on Dolphin Island.  
• Stargazing: Clear night skies treated us to dazzling views of Venus and millions of stars glowing overhead.  
• Unwanted Neighbors & The Airhorn: On our final night, an incoming boat anchored uncomfortably close to us—despite having a massive, wide-open bay! When they failed to answer VHF radio calls during our early-morning departure, we resorted to our trusty airhorn. It woke them up fast enough to shift out of our way. Hey, anchoring etiquette is always an adventure out here!  

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🥁 Warm Welcomes & Unforgettable Choral Harmonies in Ovalau

Next, we set sail for Ovalau Island, our springboard for the upcoming trip across to the Lau Group. Skipping the bumpy anchorage off the main town of Levuka, we nestled into serene Rukuruku Village on the island’s west side.  

The moment our dinghy touched the sand, the headman’s teenage son greeted us warmly and guided us to meet his parents, Joe and Kara, to present sevusevu (the traditional gift of kava root to ask permission to anchor and visit). They welcomed us with open arms and invited us to attend church with the village on Sunday morning.  

A Sunday Service to Remember

At 10:00 AM, the resonant beat of the village drum summoned everyone to worship. Though the entire service was in iTaukei (the native Fijian language), the warmth of the community needed no translation:  

• Playful Energy: Shy, smiling kids sat in the center of the church, sneaking playful taps on our shoulders before running back to their pews.  
• Heavenly Voices: The four-part vocal harmonies were unbelievable. Without a single instrument, a congregation of just 25–30 adults sang with such power and joy that they sounded like a giant, professional choir. It was an absolute privilege to share that space with them.  

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⚓ What’s Next on the Horizon?

Joe and Kara offered to drive us along the island’s rugged, winding road to Levuka to re-stock fuel and provisions. By mid-afternoon, we plan to weigh anchor for an overnight passage toward our very first destination in the remote Lau Group: Vanuabalavu Island!  

Stay tuned for the next chapter of island exploration! 🌊⛵