Weather continues to be a challenge for us here in the South Pacific. We have three destinations in mind: Niue, Tonga, and American Samoa. We’d be happy visiting any of the three. They are all in the same region, which means that weather issues affect all of them most of the time. We did get a window to leave Bora Bora, but couldn’t make it all the way to any of our potential destinations. Soooo, we are currently holed up in Maupiha’a. There are, for sure, worse things. Maupiha’a is the westernmost point of land in French Polynesia. We hadn’t planned on stopping here, but weather cropped up and we needed to duck in. This small atoll is about a day’s sail west of Bora Bora. And it is R-E-M-O-T-E. Currently 4 people live here, making a living through copra production. They live at the north end of the atoll. At the south end, there is no one. It is deserted. The entrance to the atoll is probably the most intimidating one yet for us. There weren’t any waves and current is minimal, but it is NARROW. Only about 75 feet wide and it’s about 600 feet long. It feels like you’re being squeezed. I tried not to think about engine failure.

Overhead view of the pass. There’s no scale, but that is 75 feet wide.

But, we made it and have now been at anchor a few days. It is beautiful here. The sand is some of the finest, whitest sand we’ve seen. The water is crystal clear and beautifully smooth while we can see the huge ocean waves breaking on the reef only half a mile away. Yesterday, we explored the beach and the south end of the atoll and what we found got me to thinking about how one lives in a place like this.

We came across a house here that was previously inhabited. Evidently, Hina lived alone here for about 25 years. She currently lives with family on another atoll. Her home is extremely primitive. There is no electricity. No running water. No cell service. No sewer. In fact, there is no fresh water source on the atoll-all water comes from collecting rain water in a cistern. The house consists of a living/sleeping area, a dining area with a rickety table, and a rudimentary kitchen. It has only a gas range, which looks like it has not been used in years. There is no refrigeration. Evidently she lived on fish, crabs, and coconut. That and whatever visiting sailors gifted her. It boggles my mind.

View of the kitchen
The large cement structure on the right is the water cistern
Hose and valve for the cistern

And there is no wildlife on the island, so there would be no trapping or hunting of animals. We came across one cat and one dog. The dog, Meela, was evidently left here by a resident a long time ago and has just…stayed. She evidently lives on coconut and the kindness of visiting sailors. There are open containers set out to collect rainwater, which is what she drinks.

I know I’ve said this before about other places, but I really can’t imagine living here. Previously, there were communities, though small. And there were utilities. Here, there’s… nothing. What would I do all day? Obviously, I would need to harvest coconuts and fish. And things would need fixing around the house. And Hina obviously kept her “front yard” clear and cleaned up. But then what? I might lose my mind. Obviously, the natural beauty is incredible. But eventually, what? I don’t know. It’s a way of life completely foreign to me. I have been able to imagine myself living in all the other places we have visited. But here? I just can’t. I would go crazy.

But, it’s certainly a wonderful place to visit. One of our favorites. From here? We’re not sure. We’ll let you know what Mother Nature decides.